Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia has just revealed his first collection for Gucci.

September is always full of fashion surprises—Naomi Campbell walking the Richard Quinn runway, Cher popping up at Valentino’s Studio 54 revival, or the quiet news that Rachel Scott had joined Proenza Schouler earlier this year. It’s the season when brands seize the spotlight. But perhaps the biggest twist of all came with Gucci’s unexpected release of its first lookbook under Georgian Designer Demna Gvasalia, marking his debut as Creative Director after taking the role earlier this year.

The timing is unusual. Demna’s first Gucci collection wasn’t expected until later in the fashion calendar, and the Italian house isn’t known for unannounced reveals. So why now? According to Gucci, this drop is meant as a prelude—“laying down the aesthetic foundation for Demna’s Gucci ahead of his first runway show in February,” the brand explained.

The prelude, titled Gucci: La Famiglia, is described as “a study of the ‘Gucciness’ of Gucci—an expression of the brand itself.” The campaign takes the form of family-style portraits featuring archetypal Gucci characters: the party boy, la drama queen, incazzata (Italian for “angry,” though here she’s more poised than furious), and la mecante, the patron. It’s a witty exploration of Gucci’s clientele as Demna reimagines them—like incazzata in her fiery 60s-inspired red coat, a sharp nod to her temperament.

The early look book has sparked curiosity about how Demna—best known as Vetements’ co-founder and Balenciaga’s mastermind behind cult pieces like the Triple S sneakers, Pantaleggings, and Michelle Yeoh’s viral “tin foil dress”—would translate his aesthetic into Gucci’s storied DNA. La Famiglia already provides the answer.

The surprise release feels distinctly Demna: moody all-black ensembles with rich textures, bursts of vintage glamour, sequins for late-night drama, and cheeky touches (like a knicker-clad Ragazzo). Yet it remains rooted in Gucci’s heritage, reviving signatures such as the Bamboo 1947 bag, the Horsebit loafer, the Flora motif, and the iconic GG Monogram.

The result is a seamless fusion of house codes with Demna’s unmistakable vision—heralding a bold new chapter for Gucci. Early doubts about his fit are quickly fading, with social media already celebrating the debut. All eyes now turn eagerly to February.